The Pequeño Alpamayo (also known as Alpamayo Chico or Fabulosa; pequeño means small), called this way because of its resemblance to the least known face of the peruvian Alpamayo, is a beautiful summit which is barely visible from the base camp in the valley of Condoriri-Tuni, but which is by all means one of the most attractive peaks of the area. From Chiar Khota lagoon (black lagoon in aymara), towards the south, its summit barely shows behinds the Tarija (which must forcefully be climbed when going to the Pequeño Alpamayo). If it weren´t because it is already a pretty well known mountain, which we owe to the curiosity of its first climbers, the fact that it is not visible from any place in the valley, except from the ridge between the Tarija and the Ilusión (also known as Piramide Blanca), would prevent us from setting the Pequeño Alpamayo as one of our goals.
Condoriri is an aymara word which means "condor head". Condoriri is a beautiful and popular peak north of La Paz, Bolivia. It is a massif consisting of three peaks, suggestive of the head and two wings of a condor (hence the name). The main summit is on the "head" of the condor. Access is via the small settlement of Estancia Tuni (dirt road) where burros can be hired, to a valley base camp at 4700m next to Laguna Chiar Kkota. The normal route climbs a large scree slope of an icefall to reach a glacier plateau. From there a hidden snow/ice couloir (crux) leads to the summit ridge (very airy). Nearby peaks include Pequeno Alpamayo (c. 5400m), a small but beautiful snow pyramid, and Cerro Ilusion (c. 5300m).
Drive from La Paz to TUNI Lake (4.420 m high). A 3 hour walk through grassy terrain leads us up to the base camp at CHIARKHOTA Lake (4.650 m high), located below the glaciers of Condoriri’s peaks.
CLIMB TO PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO (5.420 m high). This is the second most important summit of Condoriri group. A rather technical climb of short and aesthetic passages (55º steep). We climb up (3 hrs) by gentle glaciers, with no technical climb but exceptionally big crevasses to traverse and a short technical climb before the summit. 6 hour climb.
Rest day but if you do only the climb of Pequeño Alpamayo in your program, then, WE RETURN TODAY TO LA PAZ.
CLIMB TO HEAD OF CONDOR (5750 m high) which is the main peak in Condoriri. 3 hour climb over loose rocks up to the glacier at 5300 m high. 3 hours over gentle but quite crevassed glaciers up to the base of the summit walls at 5450 m high. 2 hours of ice-work up the arête at 50º and at times loose rock. Return to base camp
Return to La Paz.
EXTENSIONS: You can link it to “Trek Condoriri – Huayna Potosi”.
THE SERVICE INCLUDES
- Bilingual mountain guide,
- Assistant of mountain guides (more than 2 clients),
- Porters to carry extra luggage up to high camp,
- Guardian for base camp,
- Mules to carry extra luggage up to base camp,
- all food during the trip (except first breakfast and last diner)
- Private transportation,
- Cooking and dining gear,
- Camping gear,
- Ropes and snow stakes,
- Entrance fee.
LOGISTICS OF THE EXPEDITION
LEVEL OF DIFICULTY: On climbing we use the French alpine system : It starts at F (facile or easy), PD(peu difficile or a fairly easy), AD (assez difficile or fairly difficult), D (difficile or difficult), TD (très difficile or very difficult), ED (extrêmement difficile or extremely difficult). They take into consideration: The technical difficulty of the hardest section of the routes which starts at over 5000 m high and acclimatization which is as important as technical ability. In trekking we consider as well those 6 difficulties explained above but we transferred the situation to the activity of the trek. The only remarkable difference exists in the altitude: The true climbing activity starts at over 5000 m high but the trekking activity runs from 1500 m high up to 5150 m high.